Today - 53 km
Total - 251
Average - 31km/day
Winds from southeast, up to 9 m/s. Sunshine in the morning and evening.
1 cod, 1 haddock, 2 saithes
Littering degree 7/10, Mostly plastic and metal floats, plastic bottles, fishing nets.
Porridge, powdered milk, coffee.
Pasta from yesterday
Couscous, protein shake
We woke up early, heated and sweaty from the morning sun. Alex sets of our solar panel and we open the tent to get the temperature down and two more hours of sleep. The past nights we have slept between 5-6 hr, and about an hour during the day, and it has worked well.
This morning we can have breakfast outside. Porridge is on the menu as usual, but our porridge is quite something. It consists of muesli mixtures to which have added sunflower and pumpkin seeds, cashew nuts, and dried fruit (apple, banana), cinnamon, honey and our precious powdered milk. Not bad for a breakfast in the wild.
We leave at 11 AM in beautiful weather, just after the tide has reached its peak. We make good speed and pass Syltefjorden quickly. On the way across the fjord, we see lots of half dead capelin (a type of herring) in the surface water. We pick up a few for later fishing.
We continue along Syltefjord Mountains and across the Makkaur-Sandfjord. Here, Jim Danielsson was forced to seek shelter when he paddles the Norwegian coast during a spring in the 90s, and strong fjord winds accelerated down the mountainside. We are luckier and pass without problems in the calm weather. On the coastline between the fjord and Makkaur lighthouse we observe no less than four shipwrecks, illustrating how dangerous this area can be. The seals make us company also this day, and we sometimes surprise them when they are busy playing in the kelp. The shoreline is colorful from all the litter along this passage, something that doesn’t surprise us containerns the exposure.
Makkaur lighthouse is an impressive building. Unfortunately it is unmanned. We had expected to be welcomed by a bearded old man in lusekofte smoking a pipe. Yes, Makkaur lighthouse is somewhat of a disappointment. In an abandoned building, we take a power nap and make dinner. In the kitchen, cigarette butts and Vi-men (We men) magazines from 1992. At last we manage to get a fresh weather report and notice that conditions will be good until Thursday, when we likely will be stranded by strong winds.
At 9 PM, we start paddling again. The weather has changed and we now have southerly tailwind when approaching Båtsfjorden. We feels strong in spite of already having paddled 30 km today, and we cross Båtsfjord. As the name implies (Boat Fjord) here is lots of boat traffic, usually a concern, but they seem to see us clearly. Almost across the fjord, the ferry Hurtigruttenpasses behind us and we hear some encouraging cheers.
When we enter Kongsöy fjord we take the chance to s some fishing and at last we are lucky. Two saithes, one haddock and one cod. What a day!
We continue paddling into the night and finally reach Veidnesudde, again after having fought hard during the last hour. We land around 3 AM, Johan cleans and filets the fish and Alex prepares the tent and solar panel. At 5 AM, two very tired but content guys summarize a long day’s paddling, having crossed four fjords and added another 53 km to the route.